Friday, September 11, 2009

Tunisia: Reclaiming "Beginner's Mind"


Back in 2002, one year after the 9/11 attacks, Yuko and I traveled to the North African country of Tunisia in an attempt to seek out our own personal dialogue with a Muslim country. 9/11 had provided an awakening for us, a spur for further inquiry to try and understand the root causes. I began searching for what the late Zen master Shunryu Suzuki referred to as "beginner's mind," one that's flexible and open to all possibilities.


We also did what many others did; embraced those closest to us. We reflected on our marriage as a Japanese and a Canadian, and were able to salvage our faith in the belief that individuals are more powerful than events or institutions in bridging cultural divides.


Tunisia seemed like a practical destination, open and more stable than some other Arab states. Then in April something unexpected occurred - a bomb blast at the El Ghriba Synagogue on the island of Djerba killed 19, 14 of whom were German tourists. This shocking news was made even more so by the alleged involvement of al-Qaeda. After some serious hesitation we continued on with our plans, convinced that this attack was an aberration for normally moderate Tunisia.


We had no regrets. Wherever we went we were warmly welcomed and greeted with generous hospitality. Our most remarkable experience occurred while visiting the same Ghriba Synagogue with a new friend, Hamza, an economics student and a Muslim from the southern Tunisian town of Medenine.


The synagogue had been repaired and there was a visual security presence on the site with police checking ID and passports. We had met Hamza before in the main town of Houmt Souk and he offered to guide us around to a few local sites. He spoke fluent French and English, as well as Arabic.


What seemed ironic to us, a Muslim introducing us to this Jewish synagogue in an Arab country, was nothing but a sincere expression of pride for him. He considered the Jewish population to be as Tunisian as the other Berber and Turkish minorities and was proud of his country's ethnic diversity.


Hamza had proven my initial expectations to be naive, parochial and ultimately prejudicial. Somehow I had harbored the belief that Muslims were different. I knew all Christians didn't hate Muslims; why did I expect all Muslims to hate Jews?


Growing up in Canada, not surprisingly, I learned the canon of Western civilization, including much about Judaism and Israel. Throughout high school the curriculum rightly encouraged me to sympathize with Jews through the lessons of the holocaust. The establishment of the state of Israel and its justification implicitly and naturally flowed from this horrific event.


However, the Arab victims of the Christian Inquisition in the 15th century who perished or were expelled from Europe were never mentioned. The experiences of the modern Palestinians were hardly given a voice.


As a result, I've had to go far out of my way to learn anything about Arab history or the Islamic faith. In Canada this ignorance has been pervasive, promoting a biased media and an unintentionally prejudicial populace.


The "Arab world", like the "Western world", is anything but a unified monolith. There are deeply held suspicions and prejudices between countries and religious sects.


Saddam Hussein despised Muslim extremists as much as George W. Bush. The Indonesian Muslim cleric, Abu Bakar Ba'asyir, is as representative of Muslims as the American evangelist, Jerry Falwell was of Christians. Ba'asyir openly supported Usama bin-Laden; Falwell stated that the prophet Mohammed was a terrorist. Both are extremists who ultimately poison their own faiths. These similarities need to be pointed out as a reminder that no culture has a monopoly on ignorance or truth.


Seemingly pedestrian acts like choosing a vacation spot or a book to read are in fact profound expressions of political import. The fact that Tunisia is not only an Arab country, but also a Muslim one became a significant reason for visiting. It wouldn't have mattered before, and indeed, may have been a deterrent.


On the 8th anniversary of the 9/11 attacks it's more imperative than ever not to ignore or avoid questions or journeys that may seem uncomfortable or unsavory. Anger and fear are self-perpetuating traps that eventually have to give way for any deeper understanding to emerge. Small acts can be intensely meaningful and a dialogue can take on many forms.


As I stood together with Hamza and my wife inside the beautiful blue sanctuary of the Ghriba Synagogue wearing our borrowed yarmulkes, I caught a glimpse of the possibilities that emerge when people step into different cultural habitats. "The innocence of first inquiry," to quote Shunryu Suzuki once again, is the hallmark of the "beginner's mind." Our first inquiry had led us to Tunisia. Where we go next remains an open question, but one thing is certain -- our choices won't be guided by fear.

Sunday, September 06, 2009

Banff: Wide Blue Yonder

My article on Banff has been published with photos by Yuko. Here's the full version (pdf), via my website.

"The only thing as bright as the sun is its reflection sparkling off the lake. It's one of those summer days when the sky above the Canadian Rockies is as blue as lapis. The white frosted crags of Victoria Glacier tower above, while, 700 metres below, the cool, turquoise waters of Lake Louise beckon like a delicious blueberry smoothie, the perfect antidote for a hot day."


"The main hiking trail around Banff National Park's Lake Louise starts near the iconic Fairmont Chateau Hotel (www.fairmont.com) and continues for about three hours along the shoreline until it reaches the Plain of Six Glaciers. The path cuts through rambling fields of wild flowers and shady copses of pine trees. After a few twists and turns the source of the lake comes into view, looking like the melt from a vanilla ice-cream cone. The surrounding glaciers crush minerals into "rock flour", which creates the milky run-off that gives the lake its striking emerald-blue colour."


"From here the path gradually climbs through alpine meadows, over glacial scree and a few snow patches. To cool off, people flop into the snow as the sprawling glaciers loom above like a pack of yetis ready to pounce. Victoria Glacier used to reach the lip of the lake but has receded about a kilometre in the past 150 years."


"The path leads to a Swiss chalet-style teahouse and along the way there are rock climbers scaling cliffs, groups on horseback and a few ground squirrels. The first Swiss climbers arrived at the end of the 19th century, at the Canadian government’s invitation, to guide the few tourists that made it this far into the Rockies. They left behind the Plain of Six Glaciers teahouse. It’s a perfect spot in which to relax and enjoy a slice of apple pie."


"There are few wilderness areas that can match the Canadian Rockies for a combination of remoteness and accessibility. Located in the western province of Alberta, Banff is only 1 hour west of Calgary by car. With not too much effort you can find yourself recharging your batteries with the natural energy of the Rocky Mountains while sipping tea in the shadow of a crackling glacier."

Most of this vast area was opened up by the construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR). From 1881 to 1885, the CPR brought more than 15,000 labourers from China to work on the most dangerous sections of the railway. For every mile of track laid in the Rocky Mountains, it’s estimated that four Chinese workers lost their lives. Overall, some 600 perished and many of their bodies have not been found.

Wednesday, September 02, 2009

Tiwanaku: Andean Cross

This Andean Cross, or Chakana, is from Tiwanaku in Bolivia. It's also known as the Inca Cross, but pre-dates the Incas by over 2500 years. It's been found all over South America and even parts of North America.

Tiwanaku is where many believe Inca culture evolved from. Dating from at least 1500 BC, it's located about 70 kms west of La Paz near Lake Titicaca and is remarkable for the huge stone figures found at the site. We spent an afternoon exploring and were blown away by the beautiful setting.


These heads are from a subterranean chamber and all convey unique features. One even has a beard leading to speculation that these early Americans had contact with visitors from far, far away...


Thor Heyerdahl, the Norwegian ethnogragher of Kon-Tiki fame, speculated that there was much more exchange between the world's various ethnic groups than had been previously thought. I was surpised to learn that Egyptian mummies had been discovered with traces of coca, a plant indigenous to South America.









Saturday, August 29, 2009

Salar De Uyuni: Bolivian Salt Flats


The Salar de Uyuni is what remains of an ancient sea that once covered the Altiplano region of the Andes some 40,000 years ago. Now it's one huge plain of salt, the largest of its kind on the planet. Before 1969 it was virtually unknown as a tourist destination until Neil Armstrong noticed it from space. He made a note and after returning to Earth he visited the flats as the first tourist. Since then Uyuni has been attracting people from all over the world.

The above photo was taken from Isla del Pescado (Fish Island), a small "island" in the middle of the 4000 sq km salt flats. Once completely submerged beneath the ocean, it's now covered in giant cacti, some over 1000 years old, and coral fossils.


Uyuni is a magical place that's not easy to reach. From La Paz it's a 12 hour bus ride over rough roads and then another half day journey just to see a portion of the flats. We booked a 3 night tour, including one night in a beautiful salt hotel.


We also toured the Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa (Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve) and enjoyed an outdoor onsen (hot spring)...

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Valparaíso: Bohemian Paradise


It's easy to understand why poet Pablo Neruda had a home here - La Sebastiana - the city is an urban masterpiece. In a cruel twist of fate it was also the birthplace of former President Salvador Allende and the general who would eventually become his murderer in the 1973 coup, Augusto Pinochet.




Valparaíso is about 100 kms west of Santiago, Chile and it's one of the finest artistic enclaves I've ever encountered. Every free space is splashed with colour and musings on the past, present and future story of this country. We had one of the tastiest seafood meals at an a rundown restaurant near the 150 year old central market along the waterfront.


It was a beautiful day at the end of July when we arrived in Valpo, or "Paradise Valley". The city is built on a series of hills with numerous funiculars scattered throughout designed to make it easier to get around.


The closest I could compare it to would be Monterey, California - think Steinbeck's Cannery Row or Tortilla Flat - or maybe a few neighbourhoods in San Fran.


We wandered all over the hills snapping photos and watching the movements of the Chilean navy in the harbour. Some say it's become increasingly dangerous but we never felt at risk and took the same precautions we would anywhere else in the world.



Saturday, August 22, 2009

La Paz to Isla Del Sol: Inca Origins



Here we are on our way from La Paz to Copacabana on Lake Titicaca, mythic birthplace for the Incas. We'd just spent a few days in La Paz at 3500 meters and were looking forward to visiting the Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun).



It was a gorgeous day and the ferry took about 2 hours each way...



Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Rapa Nui: In The Grey Presence Of The Moai



We were dining with the Moais on the Pacific Island of Rapa Nui (Isla de Pascua/ Easter Island) a few weeks ago. It was by far one of the highlights of our trip to South America and a genuinely exhilerating experience.



Rapa Nui is approximately 180 km2 and is the most distant point in the world from any mainland. Some 4000 people currently live on the island and it´s supported almost entirely by tourism. Seventy per cent of the island is a National Park designated as a World Heritage Site in 1996. There's also a movement underway to achieve some semblance of autonomy from Chile. The local community negotiated and passed its own constitution, but it was rejected by the Chilean parliament. The struggle continues...